This is what the finished project looks like. The handle is not covered in this tutorial, but the design is ready to take any number of options. (All images by the author) I’m going to walk you step by step through making a from a common farrier’s rasp, as simply as possible, with a few tips to save time and improve the finished blade as we go. It is a simple bowie-style camp knife useful for all sorts of tasks. 1) Pattern Sketch The author traced assorted patterns on the rasp images on a large sheet of paper so he could compare each style side by side and see what works and what doesn’t.

1. Bowie Knife Making Guides

The first thing you need to do is decide on a style that suits your needs and your purpose. I find that visual aids are the easiest way to get the results I’m after, so I often do several sketches and drawings to decide what I’m trying to accomplish. For this I traced the rasp multiple times on a large sheet of paper so I could compare each style side by side and see what works and what doesn’t, as well as what the maximum potential of my material was. I decided on blade shape #4 with handle shape #5. The combo should be a good general chopper and comfortable in the hand. By visualizing this way I can mix and match infinitely.

Don’t be afraid to get creative, especially when using recycled and often-free materials. This is a chance to express yourself and your vision in. 2) Annealing Heat the rasp to nonmagnetic and then bury it in a simple metal toolbox filled with clean wood ash. Now you have a design in mind, but, before you can achieve bowie knife greatness, you must anneal the rasp so it can be shaped, drilled and ground more easily. It is certainly possible to make a rasp or file knife without annealing, but great care must be taken not to get the steel too hot and ruin the temper. Moreover, the high hardness of the file in its current state means a blade made this way would be very brittle and prone to breaking under hard-use conditions. If you have access to a heat-treating oven, by all means use it to anneal your steel.

This is a very simple and basic build, so I’ll be heating the rasp to nonmagnetic and then burying it in a simple metal toolbox filled with clean wood ash. Burying it insulates the steel, allowing it to cool very slowly.

The slow cooling softens the steel so it’s easier to work. Vermiculite is also great for this step if you don’t have access to wood ash. Vermiculite can be purchased at most garden centers and insulates very well.

It will take several hours for the rasp to cool. Don’t rush it! It will be well worth it once you start filing, drilling and grinding. 3) Design Transfer Once the teeth are cleaned off, transfer the blade design to the rasp. The rasp has cooled and it’s time to go to work. The first step is to grind the teeth off both sides.

This leaves a nice, flat surface to work with but the memory of the rasp is left behind, which gives the knife a distinctive, rugged look. An angle grinder will work great for this task, but any number of basic tools will suffice. Use whatever is readily available to you. Once the teeth are cleaned off, transfer the to the rasp. Cutting out the pattern and over spraying it with black paint works very well. However, since this design is fairly simple, I drew it out with a permanent marker.

4) Notched & Cleaned Up When you go to cut out the profile from the rasp (left), notching out the shape with a hacksaw or cutting wheel (right) makes the job much easier. Now you can start cutting out the profile. Notching out the shape with a hacksaw or cutting wheel will make the job quite a bit easier. I find that removing small pieces of metal is easier then trying to make large cuts.

After the bulk of the steel has been removed, the final profile can be shaped out with files or an angle. 5) Drilling Pins Drill a couple of holes for pins. The author uses brass bolts for the latter.

The blade is starting to take shape. Now is a good time to consider what handle material is best for your creation. There’s no wrong choice.

With the seemingly limitless options available today, you can truly express yourself from mild to wild. If you’re feeling traditional you can go with antler or perhaps stacked leather. If you want to go more cutting edge, there are hybrid burl blocks with every color resin in the rainbow. Shredded money and eggshells are even finding their way into knife handles these days. I’m going more traditional, so now is the time to drill a couple of holes for pins. I’m going to use brass bolts as pins.

They are inexpensive and can be bought at any hardware store. The threads add an extra mechanical bond when they are epoxied into place, and also act as built-in clamping devices to ensure a solid, tight fit-up when the are applied. 6) Grind the Bevels Rough grind the bevels. The author used a 4-inch angle grinder.

Leave the edge about the thickness of a penny. With the profile cleaned up and all necessary holes drilled, it’s time to start grinding in the rough blade in order to get your blade ready for hardening. The trusty 4-inch angle grinder goes to work again, though a bench-top grinder or even a good, sharp file will get the job done. The goal here is simply to remove the bulk of the metal on the sides of the blade evenly so there is less work to do after hardening. Don’t grind all the way to sharp at this point! Leave the edge about the thickness of a penny—this will protect the steel that will become your cutting edge from overheating and decarburization, helping to ensure your finished knife will live up to its maximum potential. Once the bevels are roughed in, finish up with sandpaper or a flap disc to 220 grit.

Be sure to remove any deep, heavy scratches, as these could lead to cracks during hardening. 7) Heating and Quenching After you heat the blade to nonmagnetic, quench the edge. Now you’re ready to harden some steel! I’m going to use a forge to heat the blade to nonmagnetic—aka the critical temperature—though a torch works equally well. Slowly bring the blade up to temperature and check it oft en with a magnet.

When nonmagnetic is reached, edge quench to harden the cutting edge, and leave the spine slightly softer for additional strength and toughness. Submerge the blade in the quench oil once all the color has left the blade and it goes to black. Allow the blade to cool to room temperature in oil. This will take an hour or so. A variety of things will work as quench oil and everyone has a favorite.

Depending on the types of steel used, I’ve had good luck with canola oil, ATF transmission fluid and mineral oil. I quenched my blade in Texaco type A. Mixing hot steel with oil can and will cause a fire! Be sure to take.

A well-ventilated space free of other flammable materials, as well as personal protective gear and a fire extinguisher, are musts! 8) Check for Hardening Once the blade has cooled, remove it from the oil and clean it off. Brake cleaner works well for this, as well as simple dish soap and warm water. Once the blade has cooled, remove it from the oil and clean it off. Brake cleaner works well for this, as well as simple dish soap and warm water. If the hardening was successful, you should see an area of clean steel on the cutting edge where the carbon scale has popped off the blade.

A second simple and easy way to check for a hardened blade is with a fresh, sharp file. Run the file over the knife’s cutting edge. The file should skate easily and not bite into the edge. If this is the case, you are ready to temper the blade. 9) Tempering During the basic heat treatment and tempering process, the steel oxidizes and the clean portion changes color. Is a fairly simple process. Basically, in order to reduce brittleness and increase toughness, tempering is heating the blade to a lower temperature than you did in the annealing step.

Again, if you have access to a heat-treating oven, by all means use it. However, a toaster oven or basic household oven will work just as well. Oven temperatures vary greatly—especially toaster ovens—since they lack heavy-duty insulation. This means the exact temperature you need to use will vary as well.

I start by putting my blade in the oven for an hour at 375°F. As the steel heats it oxidizes, and the clean portion changes color. This is a simple, basic heat treatment and temper, so the color change is your indicator rather than an exact temperature.

As the heat rises the color goes from a bright gold to a shade of bronze straw, then a light purple to a blue on its way to a dark blue/almost black. The dark bronze to purple is your goal. The blade should be hard enough to hold a good edge but soft enough to not chip or break during use. I did three one-hour cycles, each 25°F hotter according to my oven, and 425°F was the temperature that gave me the desired result. A simple trick to get a more even heat in a regular household oven is to put a sheet pan on the bottom rack.This holds heat closer to the element and keeps the temperature fluctuations to a minimum. 10) Finishing and Final Edge Jump into the rich tradition of knifemaking with this collection of essential books from BLADE.

You’ll save a bundle with this bundle! Now you have a hardened and tempered blade ready for finishing and a final edge. You need to remove only a small amount of steel to get down to the final edge. Don’t rush at this point! Go slowly to keep from getting the steel too hot and ruining all your hard work up to now. As long as the steel stays bright and shiny you will be fine.

Any discoloration at this stage means overheating and the risk of losing the blade temper. You also are working down to the final, finished and sharp edge.

Aren’t cheap! Be aware of where your fingers are. Some light grinding or fi ling as in the previous steps will bring your bevels down to the finished edge. Polish to at least 220 grit.

A higher-grit polish will look more finished, as well as be less prone to rust, and provide smoother, more fluid cuts. Once you get to 220, it’s time to apply an edge and see how you did. Some simple test cutting and chopping will tell you if you need to change anything, such as the thickness of your cutting edge or if you need to re-temper perhaps a few degrees hotter. Use the materials you originally planned on cutting with your new bowie to decide this. For example, since the blade primarily will be a camp knife, simple tests such as splitting kindling, cutting rope and twine, and making the all-important hotdog stick will tell you what you need to know. Time to Make the Handle.

Keep Reading:.

BOWIE KNIFE BUYERS GUIDE Welcome to the ultimate buying guide! This buyers guide is an informational resource for the famed Bowie knife.

We will highlight the best Bowie knives and brands, Bowie types, what to look for, and we’ll even touch on Bowie knife laws. Let’s dig in, shall we?. Best Selling Bowie Knives The rich history of this knife dates back to when it was designed for our troops in World War II. Over 50 years later, this knife is still going strong and is popular as ever.

This knife is included with a USMC leather sheath. The Leroy is full-tang, which means the metal of the blade extends to the bottom of the handle.

It is a strong and comfortable knife that get’s the job done. Besides, you can’t beat the price tag for a knife of this size. The Cold Steel Spike screams tactical with its strategic design. The Bowie blade on this bad boy features a satin finish that looks great with the black handle. Definitely not the biggest Bowie blade out there, but it’s portable and big enough for anything it comes up against.

This knife sports an ergonomic design with a unique dropped blade that prevents hand slipping. The Prather War was designed by Jeff Prather, who is a former 7th Special Forces member, DEA Special Agent, and DIA Intelligence Officer, among other things. CRKT and Ruger Knives teamed up with Ken Onion to create this beauty.

Now that’s a winning trio. This knife infuses elements of a traditional Bowie knife with modern construction techniques. Fun fact: The GFN handle texture matches the Ruger American Rifle stock. This makes for a great tactical Bowie knife.

Ka-Bar USMC Schrade Leroy Cold Steel Spike TOPS Prather War CRKT Ruger Muzzle-Brake Overall Length 11.875' 16.375' 8.00' 12.625' 12.00' Blade Length 7.00' 10.25' 4.00' 7.80' 7.00' Handle Length 4.875' 6.125' 4.00' 5.83' 5.00' Type Fixed Blade Fixed Blade Fixed Blade Fixed Blade Fixed Blade Blade Material 1095 Cro-Van 8Cr13MoV 4116 1095 8Cr13MoV Handle Material Leather Rubber Polymer Micarta GFN Weight 11.20 oz. Sheath Leather Polymer Kydex Kydex Polymer Best Use Tactical Camp/Hike Tactical Tactical Camp/Hike General Price $73.55 $44.95 $27.95 $159.95 $59.95 Bowie Knife vs. Bowie Blade The Bowie knife started as a fixed blade and is still known as that today. That said, there is a growing gray area in Bowie knives: The Bowie blade style. Manufacturers are introducing the Bowie blade into different styles of knives because of its iconic shape and popularity.

A true Bowie knife is a fixed blade. Just don’t be alarmed when you see a folding or butterfly knife with a Bowie blade. Bowie Blade Styles While the Bowie knife is generally fixed blade, it has evolved into a blade style that can be found in many variations. Popular Bowie styles:. Fixed blade (most common). Manual folding.

Automatic. Spring assisted. Out the Front. Butterfly As you can see, Bowie blades are well liked in the knife industry. What to Look for in a Bowie Knife Let’s steer this buying guide in another direction. Look for these things before purchasing a Bowie knife.

Size Bowie blades come in many sizes. If you need a Bowie for chopping or heavy-duty cutting, go ahead and rock that 10”+ fixed blade. If you just want a small knife for everyday carry, a 3” folder with a Bowie blade will suit your needs. Style We touched on knife styles in the previous section so now the pressure is on to find the perfect one.

Want to start hacking that tree that blocks your seaside view? Get a fixed blade Bowie. Do you like a little danger in your life? Take up butterfly flipping with a Bowie blade. Do you have a fast-paced lifestyle? An automatic Bowie should fit in nicely.

We could go on like this for hours. The point is, there is a Bowie knife style for whatever you use a knife for. Blade and Handle Material We weren’t joking when we said Bowie knives come in various shapes and sizes. That means various materials as well. The list of a Bowie knife could contain can be exhausting.

Some popular steels are:. 8Cr13MoV. 420HC. 1095.

A-2. AUS-8 The list of handle materials is just as exhaustive as steel types. Popular Bowie handle materials:.

Micarta. Polymer. Leather.

Rubber. Wood. G-10 Every steel and handle material has their advantages. Some are made to complement bottom-tier knives and some are made to go on the high end Bowie knives. Price is often reflective of the quality of the knife. Construction Perhaps the most important aspect to strength is the tang on a fixed blade. Full tang simply means the metal of the blade extends throughout the handle.

In most cases, there are two handle scales bolted or screwed into the tang on both sides. Full tang fixed blades are known for their high strength.

Bowie Knife Uses There are many uses for Bowie knives. Because of their blade shape, fixed blade Bowie knives make great hunting companions. Their strength and practicality also make Bowie knives great defense and combat weapons. Another great use for Bowie knives is in survival situations.

Best Selling Bowie Knife Brands manufactures quality hunting, sporting, and military knives and products. They are well known for their military knives that are great for tactical uses. Knives are manufactured by Taylor Cutlery. Schrade puts emphasis on having high quality products offered at affordable prices. Schrade knives can be found in industries like hunting, law enforcement, fire safety, and more.

Was founded in 1980 and set out to make the strongest, sharpest knives in the world. They are known to make attractive variations of the Bowie knife. Are knives and tools designed by people with backgrounds in the military, martial arts, law enforcement, and the outdoors. Each TOPS knife is practical, quality, and well-designed. Has been making knives in Germany for nearly 250 years. They pride themselves on using traditional techniques combined with new technology and processes.

Teamed up with Ruger firearms to make a quality line of hunting knives. The CRKT Muzzle-Brake was born from a collaboration with Ken Onion. Need we say more?

Bowie Knife Making Guides

Knows how to make a quality Bowie as they’ve been in business for over 100 years. They use state-of-the-art technology in their knives and have one of the best knife guarantees with their 4-Ever warranty. Designs their knives specifically for the outdoorsman who will need them in the field.

Bark River’s Bowie lineup features some of the most attractive we’ve seen. History of the Bowie Knife The first Bowie knife was made in 1838 by Rezin P. Bowie, who is the brother of famous Alamo hero Jim Bowie. Rezin designed the knife in Louisiana to be used as a hunting knife, but then gave it to Jim Bowie for protection after Jim had been shot in a fight. The blade gained much of its fame after Jim used it in a large brawl dubbed the Sandbar Fight.

Bowie knives today actually look very different from early versions. The first Bowies had thick, butcher knife blades with flat tops and no hand guard. The clip point we often see today then later became popular as the clip was often sharpened on the back to inflict more serious wounds. Bowie knives were popular throughout the Civil War even though some states like Tennessee had passed laws to suppress sales. Bowie knives were most popular among Confederate soldiers, but eventually replaced by bayonets as the war rolled on. The original Bowie knife has been adapted and changed throughout the years and continues to be a popular option in many forms we see today.

Bowie Knife Laws Time for a word of caution with this buyers guide. As we know, Bowie knives come in various styles. This means there are various laws. A Bowie knife does not have laws that pertain directly to it, but to the style of knife it is. For example, an automatic knife with a Bowie blade will usually have more strict laws than a manual folder with a Bowie blade.

You picking up what we’re putting down? Look up the laws for the state you live in. That’s the only way you can know if a Bowie knife is legal for you to own and carry. Recap Bowie knives are popular for their unique blade shapes and countless options. Bowie knives have a rich history in the United States and continue to be popular today.

Traditional fixed blade Bowies are the most popular, although many manufacturers are adding Bowie blades to different knife styles. When buying a Bowie knife, watch for these things:. Size. Style. Blade and handle material. Construction. Price Keep this buyers guide in mind when looking for your next knife.

We wish you luck in your Bowie buying journey!